“We were twelve years old, but we walked along the hot streets of the neighborhood, amid the dust and flies that the occasional old trucks stirred up as they passed, like two old ladies taking the measure of lives of disappointment, clinging tightly to each other. No one understood us, only we two—I thought—understood one another.” - Elena Ferrante from “My Brilliant Friend”
Neopolitan writer Elena Ferrante's four-part series following the lives and friendship of Lila and Elena begins with the book "My Brilliant Friend." The friendship starts in post-WWII Naples in a gritty, lower working class neighborhood where misery is ever-present. The studious Elena sees Lila as both her competition and her brilliant role model; they spur each other to achieve. Ferrante's first novel beautifully depicts intense feelings and complex dynamics between these friends. They take different life paths and their friendship changes, but it always endures. The city of Naples is also a central character in the book series – a dirty, violent, and seductive city. It is a complicated place where people yearn to escape, yet it remains central to who they are.
Naples has been described as a slightly menacing, failed state and one of the most romantic cities in the world. Neapolitans are sometimes characterized as more abrasive than Italians in other cities. Organized crime is deeply rooted here, as is perpetually high unemployment. Yet people who fall under Naples' spell do so because of the coexistence of beauty and chaos, the sacred and the profane.
Here, tucked away on streets with irregular garbage pick-ups, are remarkable works of art. For example, a strange and wondrous Caravaggio painting, "The Seven Acts of Mercy," is tucked away in the Pio Monte della Misericordia, a tiny church in the city's historic center. There are narrow streets with vibrant life, balconies lined with drying clothes, friendly people talking loudly, scooter drivers weaving while carrying a tray of espresso for delivery, and of course there is the pizza.
Naples is an important port city, which over the millennia has been under the control of many cultures with a long history of uprisings by people accustomed to living under oppressive conditions. Greek influence is still visible, and Greek culture was important to the Romans during its empire. The French controlled the city in the 13th and 14th centuries, and it later became a vibrant capital of the Spanish Empire. The Spanish Habsburgs were replaced by the Austrian ones, and in 1860, a unified Italy was born. To this day, some of Naples’ inhabitants believe that southern Italy was better off before unification because afterward, the per capita income plummeted and living conditions worsened.
Tourists who mostly avoided stopping for any length of time, favoring other Italian cities, have discovered it relatively recently. Alexander Lucie-Smith, a priest who first came here as a young seminarian three decades ago, said that its tourists accomplished what the government repeatedly could not, driving out the Camorra (mafia) from old Naples. But this came at a price, and most Neopolitans do not benefit.
I’ve long wanted to explore this city of contrasts and am joined by my friend Eileen. In a part of the city more privileged than the world of Elena and Lila, we too are exploring the tucked away places in this rough-around-the-edges city.
When we arrived, walking from the subway to our Airbnb, I was surprised to see the streets lined with high end shops – Nocerino, Gucci, and Prada among them. These same stores, found on exclusive (and uninteresting) streets in most major cities throughout the world, are here situated among unrenovated buildings filled with cheerful people from all walks of life. Our home for the week is light-filled with a view of the island of Capri in the distance.
The crowded and popular neighborhoods Centro Storico and Quarteri Spagnoli maintain their authentic charm, with crumbled neglected buildings nestled near to ones that inspire awe. Neighbors have animated conversations and women lower baskets with a rope from upper floor windows. Nearby Rione Sanità was avoided by travelers until just recently, and now is a place where people go for some of the best restaurants and artistic graffiti. The attractions are sandwiched between fruit shops, vendors selling underwear, and ground floor apartments with their doors left open. Rione Sanità evolves while remaining true to itself because the changes are in the hands of the people who grew up and continue to live there, and who pour their heart and skills into their neighborhood.
The experience of stimulation is ever-present in Naples, and yet it is easy to find quiet places to rest, talk, and people watch. Like much of Italy, this is a place where people are friendly and value connection. Though people hustle as they do in large, congested cities, there is always time to pause and answer a question or wish each other a good day. When you sit down for a meal, waitstaff treat your table as a place you will linger and enjoy the company. For all the contrasts of this city and its inhabitants, little signs of care are everywhere.
On our day of departure, I thanked Corrado, my Airbnb host, who left abundant gestures of care in the apartment. He was available throughout our stay with helpful tips and detailed directions to places we wanted to visit. I told him he embodied the ancient virtue of hospitality that builds bonds between people. He appreciated this recognition, saying that his Sicilian and southern origins have taught him that the guest must be cared for more than a member of the family.
Love the article